|
Product Categories
Menu
Quick Search
Shopping Cart
|
Synthetic Turf v's Natural
| Process |
Natural Turf
(instructions cut & pasted from actual natural turf website) |
Synthetic Turf |
| STEP 1 - Measuring and Ordering |
Measure the planned lawn area. Length x Width = m2
(Square metres).
Always allow 1-2% extra for off-cuts that cannot be reused.
If the lawn is an irregular shape phone or
e-mail us for free advice.Order and take delivery of the turf only when you have prepared
your ground. The turf is perishable and should be laid on the day of
delivery where possible.
|
Measure the planned lawn area. Length x Width = m2
(Square metres).
If the lawn is an irregular shape phone or
e-mail us for free advice. Consider the
dimensions of your Synthetic Turf to try to get as few seams as possible with
your layout.
Order and take delivery of
your Synthetic
Turf whenever you are ready.
|
| STEP 2 - Ground and Soil Preparation
|
Grass obtains three of the four essential
factors (air, water and nutrients) from the soil; many soils are less than
suitable for growing grass. Some soils contain too much clay, which can
result in compaction. This may cause the roots to smother and die due to air
and water being unable to penetrate all the way to the roots.
While some people don't fully understand the importance of good soils for
their lawn, many believe, they can save time and money by ignoring the need
to improve their lawn's soil. Failing to improve the soil structure before
planting is only creating a greater continual investment of money and time,
that will never return its value as fully as preparing the soil properly
before planting any turf.
Many soils have inadequate pH levels (degree of acidity or alkalinity),
resulting in it being too high or too low for optimum grass growth. A sandy
loam, with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 is the best soil for producing beautiful,
healthy lawns. Unfortunately, this soil mixture is seldom found on any
property after building has gone on.
Acidic pH 6.0 and below can be improved with the addition of lime.
Alkaline soils pH 7.5 and higher can be improved with the addition of gypsum
or sulphur.
If you are starting on an area with no existing lawn be sure to remove
rubble, weeds and any other offensive objects.
If you have an existing lawn or weeds, it may need to be poisoned prior to
preparation. This process can take sometime but is imperative when a more
dominant lawn than the one you are introducing has existed. To thoroughly
eradicate strong species, two applications of Roundup/Glyphosate
non-residual spray, spaced 10 days apart may be necessary.
See your local nurseryman for advice and always follow the manufacturer's
instructions. After the suggested waiting time remove the dead surface.
Clay type soils should have Gypsum added at the rate of 1kg to 1m2
plus medium grade sand to a depth of 50mm. Spread evenly over the area and
thoroughly rotary hoe or dig into the top 100mm of clay base. In a poor soil
situation it is essential to replace or rejuvenate the base to a depth of
100-110mm.
Rake and lightly roll the area. High spots should be evened off and low ones
filled in until the area is firm and level. A simple gauge of firmness is
that footprints should not be seen more than 10mm deep. Final levels should
be approximately 25mm below pathways/boundaries if you are wanting to match
up to existing levels.
We strongly advise a pre planting fertiliser be applied. Our Turf Starter
Fertiliser developed in conjunction with ***** has been designed to
go on top of the prepared ground and under the turf at the time of laying.
It will not burn you new turf. Ask our friendly staff to arrange delivery of
required soil enhancing fertilisers.
|
Remove sod,
you will need to remove approximately 25mm to 75mm of soil. Ideally, the sub
base will be pitched slightly towards the best direction to allow for water
drainage to run-off. Also, after the sub base and Synthetic Turf is installed,
you will want to have the edges of the Synthetic Turf at an even level with the
natural landscape.
Cap
Sprinklers. Turn off valves, compact existing ground to "firm it up
fully" (you can rent a vibrating plate compactor at most rental centers).
Spray weed/grass killer and place a weed barrier mesh down (not always
necessary in all areas of the country).
Sub-Base:
It is very important to ensure the sub-base is completely dry before laying
any crushed rock to reduce settling and ensure proper compaction for the
surface. Once you confirm that the sub-base is dry, add a top layer of
crusher dust or a 5mm crushed rock (these types are best so you don't feel
any protruding rocks when you walk on your Xtreme Turf) - - ask your local
garden supplier or nursery what material local landscapers use under paving
bricks, etc. The purpose is to firm and level your base, 25mm –75mm of
base is usually enough, although in some areas of the country where soil is
especially unstable you may need up to 100-150mm of base material; just ask
a local expert like a nursery, landscape center, or rock yard if you are not
sure. *** Please note if more than 75mm of base material is used, you will
also need to increase the amount of soil removal.
Spread, and
then compact the sub base material twice. Use the vibrating compactor
again.
Finishing Sand
layer(not
always required if crushed rock is adequately smooth) . Spread a fine layer
of sand (aprox. 2-5mm using just an ordinary seed drop spreader) on the
surface to make it more level, bags of "play sand" are available at garden
suppliers, some hardware stores. You may also use a water-filled (250 lb)
sod roller for an even more level surface
Check surface
for depressions.
Any depression areas 10mm-20mm or deeper should be filled-in and re-leveled.
Although the turf also drains vertically through the drainage holes that are
manufactured in the turf, it is still advisable to give the sub-base a
slight slope, to avoid any pools of water (slope away from buildings).
|
| STEP 3 - Installing Your Lawn
|
On a hot day, dampen the ground, area by
area, just before laying. This will ensure the soil base is not hot, thus
protecting the roots. Begin laying the turf along the longest straightest
boundary line.
Butt and push edges against each other tightly without stretching. Avoid
gaps and overlapping. Stagger the joints in a brick-like fashion - corners
and overhang can be cut with a sharp knife to achieve your desired plan.
Where possible try not to use smaller cuts or narrow strips at outer edges,
as they will not retain their moisture as well. On slopes, place turf across
the slope and if you are laying turf on a steep slope, the turf may need to
be pegged or staked. To avoid causing indentations or pockets avoid repeated
walking or kneeling on turf while it is being installed or just after
watering. After installing the turf, smooth the area with a compactor
roller to improve turf-to-soil contact, thereby avoiding air pockets. Turf
is a living plant that requires ground contact and moisture to survive.
Use your newly laid lawn sparingly until good root establishment has taken
place - two to three weeks. Avoid concentrated play activities, dog traffic
or similar rough usage until established.
|
Roll out Turf.
Position the turf where it goes, be accurate (so you don't cut off turf you
actually need). Note: Try to avoid dragging the turf as this may dislodge
some crushed rock or sand
Cut
the turf.
Cut off excess material so it's easier to work with. Always use a sharp
blade in your utility knife! Make sure turf is still positioned where it
goes. Now, trim turf more exactly with straight lines. For optimal
performance and beauty, make sure the turf is installed exactly over the
prepared based.
Seaming. Where two pieces of turf come together you will need to
make a seam. It's really not that difficult as the Synthetic Turf is fairly
high and seams are generally less noticeable than that of thin pile carpet.
You can always pay a local synthetic grass installer or carpet layer to help
you for a few hours with this process if it makes you feel more comfortable
although it usually isn't necessary for most. The seams are simply glued
together with any outdoor carpet adhesive and 300mm wide seaming tape.At
the joining seam, a 300mm wide piece of seaming tape should be cut to the
length of the seam. The turf is to be laid seam to seam the way that it
should look to ensure it fits tightly together before it is glued. Note: The
pattern of turf stitching on the under side must run in the same direction
before the two pieces are adhered. Both sides of the turf at the seam must
be pulled back in order to install the seam tape. Note: Before adhering both
pieces ensure that both edges have been properly trimmed, straight, and will
match up perfectly. Lay the seam tape down on the base directly between the
two pieces of turf that are to be joined. Apply gluing compound to the
entire piece of seam tape with a notched trowel. Place one side of the turf
in the middle of the tape (approximately 150mm) to the center of the tape.
Lay the other side of the turf over the middle of the seam tape to match up
exactly to the turf that has just been adhered to the tape. Mesh the fibers
together with fingers or brush. Note: Allow 24 hours for glue to properly
dry. The following procedures can be administered during the drying time,
but turf may shift and require repositioning.
Infill Preparation.
Once glue has dried, trim off turf so your lawn fits as desired.
Next, it is a good idea to nail the perimeter
every 500mm-800mm with nails (80-120mm length). In order to prepare
to infill the turf, rake or power broom the turf in the opposite direction
that the turf is laying on the roll. This will allow the infill material to
infiltrate the turf rapidly and prevent turf blades from getting trapped in
the in fill. The infill process will now commence using a standard seed drop
spreader with either sand or crumb rubber as an infill. The infill helps to
weigh the turf down, and stabilize the fibers so as to help avoid "matting".
Most use sand infill as it is the least expensive compared to rubber infill.
Of course rubber is more shock absorbent than sand, so choose what you can
afford and prefer, although it is advisable to have at least the top half in
rubber infill. You want to calculate the amount of infill in advance, as
you will want to leave around 15mm of grass blade exposed. As a general
rule of thumb, approximately .75 of a kilogram of sand equals around 10mm of
in fill height. For a crumb rubber infill, use rubber with
approximately 5 kilograms of rubber per sq metre for every 10mm of in fill
height. Spread the infill in several passes. As you spread the infill you
should make one entire pass on the surface then sweep it down into the
fibers, repeating the process until all of your infill has been spread.
Optional Edging. Depending on your
yard, you may want to install some type of edging material around your new
lawn. Examples are natural stone, brick, rock borders, metal edging,
plastic edging and timber edging (similar to what is used around flower
beds) are popular.
Congratulations!!! The installation is complete!
|
| STEP 4 - Watering |
Watering Systems:
We highly recommend you to install a quality watering system, especially in
larger lawn areas. It is given that most homeowners are using up to 50% more
water than their landscaping requires. That's neither frugal for the piggy
bank, nor beneficial for the lawn. Generally your watering is cut in half by
the installation of an efficient irrigation system. The solution isn't just
watering less but watering more scientifically: The right amount of water,
evenly distributed in the right places at the right time. Any automatic
system makes this possible. If you choose to use or have in place a manual
system, simply increase its efficiency by attaching a timer to the tap.
Watering at installation:
Water your lawn within half an hour of installation. Ideally, watering
should begin as soon as an area large enough to put down a sprinkler is
ready. It is vital that enough water is put down the first time to
thoroughly soak the turf and the soil under the turf. You can check the
moisture content by lifting a flap of the turf and sticking your finger into
the soil. It should be moist 30-50mm deep. By giving the turf a heavy first
watering you will rid the area of any air pockets, which dry out.
It is vital your lawn is kept moist enough to survive hot, dry and windy
conditions. In cool weather this may mean watering only every 3 or 4 days.
In very hot weather you may have to water 3 times a day. Do not allow the
turf or soil underneath to dry out between waterings.
Pay special attention to the corners and edges of newly turfed areas, they
tend to dry our sooner and they are hard to water properly.
Hand watering of these areas is best during establishment. The lawn must
then stay extremely damp for the next 14 days.
After 14 days:
After this time the turf will have started to root and you should begin a
more regular watering routine. Less frequent but
deeper watering is
recommended. This encourages deep rooting, which is vital in achieving
drought tolerancy.
Shallow waterings cause the root system to grow near the surface. Over time
the roots will follow the water down into the soil and you will have lush
healthy turf. Water near buildings, pavements and reflective areas more
often as the turf will be drier.
Water anytime the turf has a dry pale blue/grey colour or if the grass does
not spring back after walking on it. Ideally, water in the early morning as
evaporation from the leaf is quite rapid.
Please note: A newly laid lawn will take up to 12 months before it
has established a deep enough root system to achieve its maximum drought
tolerance. Therefore, your new lawn will require more water during its first
summer, to enable it to develop to its full potential. |
NIL |
| STEP 5 - Mowing |
After approximately 14 days, when watering
cycles are normal, the ground will have firmed a little and you can mow (just
remove the tips of growth) and lightly fertilise.
Mowing is important in
that it strengthens the root system, making the lawn robust and vigorous.
Plateau Couch:
Plateau should ideally be mown every 3-5 weeks at a height of approx. 8-12mm
during summer and in winter mow every 6-8 weeks and raise the mowing height
to approx. 14-18mm. Raising the height fractionally over late autumn and
winter will give better colour. DO NOT mow couch close in winter.
Winter green Couch, & Santa Anna Couch:
Wintergreen should ideally be mown every 10-14 days at a height of approx.
8-12mm during summer and in winter mow every 3-5 weeks and raise the mowing
height to approx. 12-16mm. Raising the height fractionally over late autumn
and winter will give better colour. DO NOT mow couch close in winter. Mowing
at even lower levels can achieve putting green appearances.
Tall Fescue/Cool Season Grasses:
Fescue should ideally be mown every 10-14 days at a height of approx. 50mm
during summer, this helps to shade the lawn and conserve moisture. In winter
drop the mower to approximately 40mm; this will let the light and warmth
into the lawn.
Supersoft Buffalo & Neergabby Buffalo:
Buffalo should ideally be mown every 10-14 days at a height of approx.
15-20mm during summer and in winter mow every 3-5 weeks at a similar height.
Mowing at a higher level will improve drought tolerance and leaf softness.
Kikuyu:
Kikuyu should ideally be mown every 10-14 days at a height of approx.
12-16mm during summer and in winter mow every 3-5 weeks and raise the mowing
height to approx. 16-20mm.
Bent:
Bent should ideally be mown every 4-5 days at a height of approx. 4-6mm
during summer and in winter mow every 7-10 days and raise the mowing height
to approx. 6-7mm.
For best appearance be sure to keep your mowing blades sharp. |
NIL |
| STEP 6 - Fertilising & Maintenance Follow-up |
Fertilising
Once your lawn is established a general rule is to fertilise 6-7 times each
year at a rate of approximately 1.5 to 2kg per 100m2.
Note: All fertilisers must be applied evenly to dry lawn and then
irrigated thoroughly.
For leaf greenness a nitrogen-based fertiliser is used. It is common
practice to mow you lawn lower prior to springtime fertilising. If the
ground is uneven it is advisable to top dress (with a loam to match what has
been used previously) and mow your lawn in the opposite direction. This will
alleviate any irregular bumps.
Your lawn will smother if loam is applied too heavy (one tonne per 100m2
is ample), brush to expose the leaf blade.
Thatch Control
All running grasses develop over a period of time what is known as thatch -
this is a mixture of dead and decaying root and shoot tissue. A small to
medium amount of thatch in a lawn is beneficial to its well being (less
evaporation, better water retention, increased tolerance to wear and tear).
However, where the accumulation of thatch reaches a point to impede water,
air and fertiliser, then corrective measures must be adopted.
Scarifying
On Couch and Kikuyu, scarifying every two or three years will rid the lawn
of excess thatch and make for a healthier, less spongy, better looking turf.
This can be accomplished by vigorous slicing through the turf with a
scarifying rake, or contractors can carry out the necessary work by machine.
After scarifying, the debris should be collected and then the lawn can be
fertilised and well watered. Scarifying is best carried out in November or
December. |
Fertilising - NIL
Maintenance
Routine maintenance generally includes keeping the surface clean of
debris, especially that which may decay into the infill, and occasionally
sweeping the fibers up to revitalize the appearance of the lawn.
Rain is your best cleanser. Rainfall gently cleans the turf fibers of
dust, pollen and airborne pollutants in a way that is difficult to duplicate
in any other fashion. In areas where rainfall is scarce--or during
prolonged periods of drought--an occasional water flush is beneficial to
soak and thus cleanse the turf system ( only if water restrictions allow ).
This procedure is recommended for all turf systems.
|
| STEP 7 - Weed & Pest Control |
There are numerous varieties of weeds and
pests that can effect the growth and appearance of your lawn.
******* and recommends ******* (HDL****). For
advice or to arrange a quote please contact **** (**) ***** or Mobile
*******. |
NIL |
| |
|
|
|
Recently Visited Pages
Popular Pages
|
