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Synthetic Turf Installation Installing Synthetic Turf
DisclaimerNo representations or warranties are made regarding the information contained here within and/or in any Turf literature. Since factors including materials used, installation techniques, environmental conditions, etc. vary for each particular installation site or area, A1 Synthetic Turf Supplies does not guarantee the results by utilizing any of the information contained herein.1) Mark off the area that you will install with an outdoor spray can marker. Consider the dimensions of your Xtreme Turf to try to get as few seams as possible with your layout. 2) Remove sod, you will need to remove approximately 25mm to 75mm of soil. Ideally, the sub base will be pitched slightly towards the best direction to allow for water drainage to run-off. Also, after the sub base and Xtreme Turf is installed, you will want to have the edges of the Turf at an even level with the natural landscape.3) Cap Sprinklers. Turn off valves, compact existing ground to "firm it up fully" (you can rent a vibrating plate compactor at most rental centers). Spray weed/grass killer and place a weed barrier mesh down (not always necessary in all areas). 4) Sub-Base: It is very important to ensure the sub-base is completely dry before laying any crushed rock to reduce settling and ensure proper compaction for the surface. Once you confirm that the sub-base is dry, add a top layer of crusher dust or a 5mm crushed rock (these types are best so you don't feel any protruding rocks when you walk on your Turf) - - ask your local garden supplier or nursery what material local landscapers use under paving bricks, etc. The purpose is to firm and level your base, 25mm –75mm of base is usually enough, although in some areas of the country where soil is especially unstable you may need up to 100-150mm of base material; just ask a local expert like a nursery, landscape center, or rock yard if you are not sure. *** Please note if more than 75mm of base material is used, you will also need to increase the amount of soil removal. 5) Spread, and then compact the sub base material twice. Use the vibrating compactor again. 6) Finishing Sand layer (not always required if crushed rock is adequately smooth). Spread a fine layer of sand (approx. 2-5mm using just an ordinary seed drop spreader) on the surface to make it more level, bags of "play sand" are available at garden suppliers, some hardware stores. You may also use a water-filled sod roller for an even more level surface . 7) Check surface for depressions. Any depression areas 10mm-20mm or deeper should be filled-in and re-levelled. Although the turf also drains vertically through the drainage holes that are manufactured in the turf, it is still advisable to give the sub-base a slight slope, to avoid any pools of water (slope away from buildings). 8) Roll out Turf. Position the turf where it goes, be accurate (so you don't cut off turf you actually need). Note: Try to avoid dragging the turf as this may dislodge some crushed rock or sand. 9) Cut the turf. Cut off excess material so it's easier to work with. Always use a sharp blade in your utility knife! Make sure turf is still positioned where it goes. Now, trim turf more exactly with straight lines. For optimal performance and beauty, make sure the turf is installed exactly over the prepared based.
10) Seaming. Where two pieces of turf come
together you will need to make a seam. It's really not that difficult as the Turf is fairly high and seams are generally less noticeable than that of
thin pile carpet. You can always pay a local synthetic grass installer or
carpet layer to help you for a few hours with this process if it makes you feel
more comfortable although it usually isn't necessary for most. The seams are
simply glued together with outdoor turf adhesive and 300mm wide seaming
tape. 11) Infill Preparation. Once glue has dried, trim off turf so your lawn fits as desired. Next, it is a good idea to nail the perimeter every 500mm-800mm with nails (80-120mm length). In order to prepare to infill the turf, rake or power broom the turf in the opposite direction that the turf is laying on the roll. This will allow the infill material to infiltrate the turf rapidly and prevent turf blades from getting trapped in the in fill. The infill process will now commence using a standard seed drop spreader with either sand or crumb rubber as an infill. The infill helps to weigh the turf down, and stabilize the fibers so as to help avoid "matting". Most use sand infill as it is the least expensive compared to rubber infill. Of course rubber is more shock absorbent than sand, so choose what you can afford and prefer, although it is advisable to have at least the top half in rubber infill. You want to calculate the amount of infill in advance, as you will want to leave around 15mm of grass blade exposed. As a general rule of thumb, approximately .75 of a kilogram of sand equals around 10mm of in fill height. For a crumb rubber infill, use approximately 5 kilograms of rubber per sq metre for every 10mm of in fill height. Spread the infill in several passes. As you spread the infill you should make one entire pass on the surface then sweep it down into the fibers, repeating the process until all of your infill has been spread.
12) Optional Edging. Depending on your
yard, you may want to install some type of edging material around your new
lawn. Examples are natural stone, brick, rock borders, metal edging, plastic
edging and timber edging (similar to what is used around flower beds) are
popular.
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